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Brooklyn-raised executive chef John Turnbull of Madre (214 Franklin Street) loves traveling the world and learning different cuisines.
Turnbull grew up in South Brooklyn but now lives in Greenpoint. After majoring in economics and crunching numbers in college, he decided the world of finance wasn’t for him and wanted to try his hand at cooking from the lowest echelon as a delivery driver.
He has worked at Antica Pesa (115 Berry St.) and Llama Inn (50 Withers St.) and now brings inspiration to Madre from all over the world.
green pointer We spoke with Turnbull to hear all about his exotic adventures, some of his favorite dishes in Madre, and his love of the diverse Greenpoint neighborhood.
Green pointer: You weren’t always the executive chef. You started your career at the bottom of the food and beverage industry as a delivery driver. What made you want to be part of the food industry?
Chef John Turnbull: It has always been my passion. When I was in college, I lived with a bunch of guys and we needed to eat. Somehow I became the home cook and slowly became a passion .
When I got back to New York, I was doing odd jobs here and there. I said, let’s see what the restaurant world is like. I learned on the job. Dostros was my first delivery driver. I’m 23 and just got a job. When I got back from the delivery, I poked my head in the kitchen and asked if I needed any chopped onions and they said yes.
Then I found a job at Antica Pesa (115 Berry Street) in Williamsburg. I worked there for nearly three years and became a junior sous chef. I learned everything there and fell in love with Italian food. Then into the world of Michelin. I worked at Nomad. Then she went to Italy for 8 months and it was amazing.
Green pointer: You also worked as the sous chef at another local restaurant, the Llama Inn. Why did you switch from Italian to Peruvian?
Chef Turnbull: My thing is that I love to travel. I don’t have a lot of time, but every year I try to take a two-week vacation and go to interesting places with great food at affordable prices.
For example, my first trip was to Peru. I came back thinking Peruvian food was the best food ever, so I took a job at the Llama Inn (50 Withers St.). They make great contemporary Peruvian food.
Green pointer: And how did you end up in Madre?
Chef Turnbull: Two years after my trip to Peru, I went to Spain. When I came back this job at Madre opened. It’s not Spanish style, but there are pulpos, croquettes, etc. We can play almost anything. It’s kind of a new American concept, but I’m trying to lean towards Mediterranean and Spanish flavors.
Travel is my biggest inspiration. I just came back from Thailand and have recently become obsessed with fish sauce.
Green pointer: Will Thai-inspired dishes be on Madre’s menu soon?
Chef Turnbull: Certain recipes use fish sauce where it is not too strong. You cannot cook Thai food here. Do not fit. But I’m going to put the banana leaf wrapped and steamed dish on it soon, but I’m using Mexican peppers instead of Thai peppers. You can learn the technique, but you can also make it your own way. This is really special.
Green pointer: What is your favorite Madre menu item to cook now?
Chef Turnbull: I think one of the fish dishes. Attention to detail is required. Now we have monkfish. They are delicate fish and very ugly. But if you clean it and give it the love it needs, it tastes like lobster. It’s sustainable and affordable. In addition, I like to dismantle fish.
Green pointer: What food would you recommend to a local going to Madre for the first time?
Chef Turnbull: Probably ceviche. People love banana soufflé. That’s something most people don’t do. Proud to have a soufflé. Everyone loves croquettes. they are classic. they stand out. And maybe an octopus. It’s been on the menu since day one.
Green pointer: Where do you go in your neighborhood when you’re not working? Do you have a favorite restaurant in Greenpoint (other than Madre)?
Chef Turnbull: I like some old spots. I love Amber Steakhouse (119 Nassau Ave.). It’s old school. I also love Greenpoint Fish (114 Nassau Ave.). Those are my fish buddies, but I also love happy hour oysters. I also love old school Polish joints. On my days off, I like to be more discreet and casual. But it’s also delicious.
Green pointer: What do you love about Greenpoint’s restaurant scene?
Chef Turnbull: I love that it’s so diverse and ever-changing because there’s always new things opening and closing. The Michelin-starred can get luxury items like Oxomoco (128 Greenpoint Ave.), but next door, his Karczma (136 Greenpoint Ave.) offers $15 lunches for him. can be eaten for days on a plate of Diversity is great.
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